Varios vinos de Bodegas Viñátigo han sido analizados y despuntan entre los vinos españoles y otros a nivel internacional en la última edición de View from the Cellar, boletín bimensual en Internet del crítico estadounidense John Gilman.
Gilman comenzó como comerciante minorista de vinos en Nueva York, luego fue sumiller y en la actualidad es es un reconocido experto en Borgoña dónde sus opiniones tienen gran predicamento entre coleccionistas y tiendas especializadas, fundamentalmente en Nueva York.
View from the Cellar, sigue la misma fórmula que el Wine Advocate de Parker de acceso sólo mediante suscripción. Los paralelismos, sin embargo, se acaban ahí. El View from de Cellar se dirige a un público minoritario pero de alto poder adquisitivo, ávido de descubrir nuevas zonas y de probar vinos que se sitúan en las antípodas del estilo potente y concentrado que estuvo de moda hasta hace poco.
En una entrevista de Tyler Colman, uno de los más reputados blogueros en Estados Unidos, lo define así: «John se ha ganado rápidamente el respeto de sus lectores y del comercio porque no tiene miedo de llamar a los cosas como las ve«.
Así las cosas, reproducimos aquí las valoraciones de John Gilman originales:
2008 MalvasíaBodegas Viñátigo (Tenerife)
The 2008 Malvasía Aromática from Viñátigo is a pretty wine, but the late-harvest style here has resulted in a pretty heady wine, coming in at a full fifteen percent and there is a touch of heat on the backend as a result. The bouquet is a stylish mix of orange peel, honey, fresh apricot, volcanic soil and a touch of Fino-like nuttiness in the upper register. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, complex and tangy, with a fine core, plenty of fruit and a long, zesty and nicely focused finish. If it were not for the octane, this would be outstanding, rather than very good, but perhaps this is just the traditional style of wines of this genre on the Canaries.
2015 GualBodegas Viñátigo (Tenerife)
The 2015 Gual from Bodegas Viñátigo (Bual is this grape’s name in Madeira, where it is more familiar) is fermented and aged in stainless steel prior to bottling. The wine delivers a fine and exotic nose of green oranges, pineapple, salty minerality, citrus peel and a floral topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and quite assertive in personality, with a rock solid core, bright acids and fine length and grip on the complex finish that closes with a distinct touch of citrus peel. This is no wall flower!.
2015 BlancoBodegas Viñátigo (Tenerife)
The Bodegas Viñátigo is run by Juan Jesus and his wife Elena Batista, with Juan a professor of viticulture by day and Elena overseeing much of the day to day viticultural work (she also has a Master’s Degree in Oenology) and the two sharing responsibilities in the cellar. Their 2015 Listán Blanco is produced from hundred year-old vines that are trained on pergolas (Albariño style) and fermented and raised entirely in stainless steel. The wine offers up a fine bouquet of lime, tart pear, a touch of walnut, salty soil tones and a topnote of ocean breeze. On the palate the wine is even more expressive than the youthful nose suggest, with its full-bodied format delivering lovely complexity, a fine core, bright acids and excellent length and grip on the complex and very well-balanced finish. This is a very fine bottle.
2015 MarmajueloBodegas Viñátigo (Tenerife)
The Marmajuelo from Bodegas Viñátigo is produced entirely from this little known, indigenous white wine grape from the Canary Islands. Proprietor Juan Jesus ferments and ages this entirely in stainless steel, with a few months spent on the fine lees. The 2015 Marmajuelo offers up a really pretty and perfumed bouquet of peach, musk-melon, acacia blossoms, a touch of fresh rosemary and plenty of beeswax in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, 148 full-bodied and loaded with personality, with more soil signature than what comes through on the nose, a good core, sound acids and impressive length and grip on the ripe and extroverted finish. This is 13.5 percent octane and it is just a touch heady on the finish, but there is an awful lot to like here!.
2016 RosadoBodegas Viñátigo (Tenerife)
The Listán Negro Rosado from Bodegas Viñátigo is also made by the saignée method and the 2016 version wafts from the glass in a stylish aromatic constellation of dried cherries, orange peel, a touch of pepper, gentle smokiness and a nice base of soil. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, crisp and juicy, with a good core, bright acids and good grip on the long finish. This is very, very easy to drink!.
2015 TintoBodegas Viñátigo (Tenerife)
The Listán Negro from Bodegas Viñátigo is fermented in stainless and then spends three months of its elevage in older French and American oak casks. The 2015 is excellent, offering up a superb bouquet of dark berries, a touch of grilled meats, cinnamon, lovely soil tones, a hint of vanillin oak and a topnote of woodsmoke. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and light on 152 its feet, with tangy acids, fine focus and grip, just a touch of backend tannin on the long and complex finish. With extended air, a very gentle Canary Islands touch of botanicals adds just another layer of complexity to the aromatic profile here. This is a beautifully made wine and a stunning value!.