Several wines from Bodegas Viñátigo have been analyzed and stand out among Spanish wines and others internationally in the latest edition of View from the Cellar, bimonthly Internet newsletter by American critic John Gilman.
Gilman began as a wine retailer in New York, then served as sommelier and is currently a renowned expert in Burgundy where his opinions have great predicament among collectors and specialty stores, primarily in New York.
View from the Cellar, follows the same formula as Parker’s Wine Advocate for subscription only access. The parallels, however, end there. The View from de Cellar is aimed at a minority audience but with high purchasing power, eager to discover new areas and to try wines that are in the antipodes of the powerful and concentrated style that was fashionable until recently.
In an interview with Tyler Colman, one of the most reputed bloggers in the United States, he defines it as: “John has quickly gained the respect of his readers and of commerce because he is not afraid to call things the way he sees them.“
Thus, we reproduce here the original John Gilman’s assessments:
2008 MalvasíaBodegas Viñátigo (Tenerife)
The 2008 Malvasía Aromática from Viñátigo is a pretty wine, but the late-harvest style here has resulted in a pretty heady wine, coming in at a full fifteen percent and there is a touch of heat on the backend as a result. The bouquet is a stylish mix of orange peel, honey, fresh apricot, volcanic soil and a touch of Fino-like nuttiness in the upper register. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, complex and tangy, with a fine core, plenty of fruit and a long, zesty and nicely focused finish. If it were not for the octane, this would be outstanding, rather than very good, but perhaps this is just the traditional style of wines of this genre on the Canaries.
2015 GualBodegas Viñátigo (Tenerife)
The 2015 Gual from Bodegas Viñátigo (Bual is this grape’s name in Madeira, where it is more familiar) is fermented and aged in stainless steel prior to bottling. The wine delivers a fine and exotic nose of green oranges, pineapple, salty minerality, citrus peel and a floral topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and quite assertive in personality, with a rock solid core, bright acids and fine length and grip on the complex finish that closes with a distinct touch of citrus peel. This is no wall flower!.
2015 BlancoBodegas Viñátigo (Tenerife)
The Bodegas Viñátigo is run by Juan Jesus and his wife Elena Batista, with Juan a professor of viticulture by day and Elena overseeing much of the day to day viticultural work (she also has a Master’s Degree in Oenology) and the two sharing responsibilities in the cellar. Their 2015 Listán Blanco is produced from hundred year-old vines that are trained on pergolas (Albariño style) and fermented and raised entirely in stainless steel. The wine offers up a fine bouquet of lime, tart pear, a touch of walnut, salty soil tones and a topnote of ocean breeze. On the palate the wine is even more expressive than the youthful nose suggest, with its full-bodied format delivering lovely complexity, a fine core, bright acids and excellent length and grip on the complex and very well-balanced finish. This is a very fine bottle.
2015 MarmajueloBodegas Viñátigo (Tenerife)
The Marmajuelo from Bodegas Viñátigo is produced entirely from this little known, indigenous white wine grape from the Canary Islands. Proprietor Juan Jesus ferments and ages this entirely in stainless steel, with a few months spent on the fine lees. The 2015 Marmajuelo offers up a really pretty and perfumed bouquet of peach, musk-melon, acacia blossoms, a touch of fresh rosemary and plenty of beeswax in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, 148 full-bodied and loaded with personality, with more soil signature than what comes through on the nose, a good core, sound acids and impressive length and grip on the ripe and extroverted finish. This is 13.5 percent octane and it is just a touch heady on the finish, but there is an awful lot to like here!.
2016 RosadoBodegas Viñátigo (Tenerife)
The Listán Negro Rosado from Bodegas Viñátigo is also made by the saignée method and the 2016 version wafts from the glass in a stylish aromatic constellation of dried cherries, orange peel, a touch of pepper, gentle smokiness and a nice base of soil. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, crisp and juicy, with a good core, bright acids and good grip on the long finish. This is very, very easy to drink!.
2015 TintoBodegas Viñátigo (Tenerife)
The Listán Negro from Bodegas Viñátigo is fermented in stainless and then spends three months of its elevage in older French and American oak casks. The 2015 is excellent, offering up a superb bouquet of dark berries, a touch of grilled meats, cinnamon, lovely soil tones, a hint of vanillin oak and a topnote of woodsmoke. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and light on 152 its feet, with tangy acids, fine focus and grip, just a touch of backend tannin on the long and complex finish. With extended air, a very gentle Canary Islands touch of botanicals adds just another layer of complexity to the aromatic profile here. This is a beautifully made wine and a stunning value!.